As the weather begins to cool, fall is a great time to enjoy Stanhopea blooms and watch new growths emerge. This is also a good time to repot or rebasket plants because it is still warm and many Stanhopea will continue growth through fall. By the end of December, most warm growing Stanhopea will complete their growth cycle, and wait for spring/summer to continue growth in preparation for summer or fall bloom.
·
Continue watering all Stanhopea regularly and keeping them moist. I usually water these orchids three to four
times a week under normal temperature conditions.
If temperatures rise above 90°F (28°C) and humidity is low I mist and
lightly water every day. Guarding against low humidity is particularly
critical growing Stanhopea outdoors
in southern California due to the Santa Ana winds we often receive. These winds are warm to hot and are devoid of
humidity. By the end of fall you can
often begin to reduce watering slightly to just two times a week, or less if
rainfall is plentiful.
·
Continue fertilizing all species regularly. I often reduce the manufacturer’s
recommendations to one third or one half and fertilize every week, or what is
known as weakly-weekly. Stanhopea can be rather heavy feeders
when they are in active growth.
·
Fall is an excellent time to repot smaller Stanhopea or larger baskets. I usually wait until mid to late October to
rebasket because this allows the growths to increase in size and makes it less
likely that you will injure them. This
is a prime time for growth for several species and rebasketing is advantageous.
·
Weed baskets to prevent ferns and other plants
from taking up space in baskets.
·
In mid fall (November) I remove or roll up most
of the saran shade cloth and store it until spring. This allows the Stanhopea to receive more sunlight, albeit diffused light during
the fall and winter months. This will
assist those species that grow all year and often complete their growth in the
winter.
·
If you know temperatures are going to increase
and humidity levels drop, you may want to consider moving a Stanhopea that is coming into bloom to a
shadier more humid area, or as I often do onto my covered patio. That way I can enjoy the flower show right
from my window. This often prevents
early desiccation of flowers and they tend to last the average three to five
days instead of just two.
·
Throughout fall make sure to check for growing
inflorescences and ensure that their growth is unimpeded by other plants or the
basket. If need be place a plastic label
underneath the inflorescence to help direct the growth out of the basket. Some inflorescences may emerge from the
baskets as late as November or December in some species.
·
Use of a methaldihide product or an organic
substitute such as Sluggo is advised on a weekly basis at this time to prevent
slugs from disfiguring new growth and impacting new inflorescence and bud
growth. I often use a product called
“That’s It” that is a granular form and therefore leaves less residue in the
growing media. I am currently testing Sluggo
as a more organic method of slug control.
·
Check for spider mites through fall as our
weather is still warm and dry. Small
yellow spots on the foliage signal that these pests are active on your Stanhopea. Spray infected areas with rosemary oil spray
or an insecticidal soap to kill the pests as soon as possible to prevent them
from damaging the plant further and spreading to other orchids.
·
You should also be diligent in keeping watch for
fungus infections at this time on leaves.
Several fungus attack leaves when humidity is high and temperatures are
warm. Black or brown spots of leaves and yellowing of leaves in odd patterns
are usually the cause of fungus or bacterial infection. Treat with a fungicide or bactericide. I often use Physan 20 to deal with the
problems and prevent further damage to the plants.
·
The warmer temperatures and reduced breezes
combine to cause fungal infections such as black spot on some Stanhopea species and hybrids. The key to reducing this problem is to make
sure your Stanhopea are grown in a
breeze way that gets constant air flow, or to place a fan in the growing area
that produces a very slight breeze at all times. This will prevent the fungus from settling on
the leaves and disfiguring them. This
problem does not impact the health of the plant to a large degree but it does
look unsightly.
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