Showing posts with label Stanhopea hernandezii. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stanhopea hernandezii. Show all posts

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Stanhopea hernandezii


This species is native to Mexico in a narrow range on the southwest side of the Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt at lower elevations from 5575 to 7220 feet (1700 to 2200 m) in moist forests with a seasonal dry period.  The range includes the states of Guerrero, Mexico, Michoacan and Morelos.  This Stanhopea grows as a semi-terrestrial and lithophyte in shallow soil over rock or in decaying leaf litter.  Because of the decrease in winter rainfall and growth with little cover, this orchid tends to dry out a bit over the winter and this initiates flowering in late spring and summer.  However, reducing water in the winter without sufficient humidity will often lead to leaf drop, so never let this species completely dry out.  This leaf drop will often occur on younger pseudobulbs.  I grow this species outside on the north side of the house with full shade to dappled sunlight.  This species is a cool to intermediate grower for southern California.


Stanhopea hernandezii inflorescence

The flowers of this species are approximately 3.7 inches (9.4 cm) across with large reddish spots throughout the petals and sepals over a background color that can be a cream to buff or yellow.  The species is included in the Saccata section of Stanhopea that have inflated hypochiles that are sack-like.  The inflorescence holds typically 2 to 3 flowers and is rather short 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) long.  The leaves of this clone are also short 5 to 6 inches (12.7 to 15.2 cm) long, while other clones have leaves 8 to 9 inches (20.3-22.9 cm) long.  The pseudobulbs are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide and are oval and smooth, lacking many of the ribs seen in other Stanhopea.

Stanhopea hernandezii flower

The fragrance of this orchid is a bit difficult to describe but is a mixture of vanilla, herbs, peppermint, and cinnamon. The fragrance varies throughout the day and even has a similarity to bubblegum at times, very different than S. tigrina which this species is sometimes confused with.

Stanhopea hernandezii close up showing the inflated hypochile

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Spring 2014 Inflorescences

This past winter was warm and dry which made it difficult to keep the Stanhopea watered and fertilized.  This warmer weather continued through spring when temperatures were averaging a few degrees above normal for several weeks.  The warmer weather has prompted inflorescences to grow and mature a few weeks earlier than normal.  I expect blooms to open  in the next few days.

A Small division of Stanhopea tigrina var. nigroviolacea 'Glory of Mexico' that has waited the last two years to bloom and is producing five well spaced inflorescences!

Stanhopea hernandezii with three inflorescences.  This will be the first time I get to see this plant in bloom though I have owned it for three years.  The first year it bloomed I was on vacation and missed the flowers opening.  Last year the buds blasted. This year may be the year the flowers open when I am present.
Stanhopea tigrina var. nigroviolacea getting ready to open.  Unfortunately one inflorescence went unnoticed and was stuck between two wires, so only three will bloom this year.

Saturday, January 12, 2013

Stanhopea Winter Culture Checklist



  • Water these species (S. hernandezii, S. jenischiana, S. leitzei, S. maculosa) sparingly during the winter and stop fertilizing them.These Stanhopeas will need less water and a little more sun in order to provide them with a rest period that will enable them to produce more flowers the following spring/summer.
  • Fertilize other species that are still actively growing. I prefer to use the low nitrogen “fish emulsion” at this time of the year.  Make sure to purchase the deodorized form, for a more pleasant growing atmosphere. I only fertiilize with half of the recommended strength of all fertilizers I use on Stanhopeas.
  • Weed baskets to prevent ferns and other plants from taking up space in the baskets.  While these plants often improve the aesthetic appearance of an orchid basket, they can often steal vital nutrients from the orchid.
  • If you grow your Stanhopeas outdoors, ensure that the trees providing them shade have been pruned to let the plants receive more light at this darker time of year.
  • Store away saran shade cloth until spring if no direct sun reaches the plants.
  • Use of metaldehyde products is advised on a weekly basis to prevent slugs from disfiguring new growth and impacting inflorescence and bud growth on Stanhopeas.  There are also several other methods discussed on the American Orchid Society website at this link AOS Orchid Snail and Slug Treatment.  This link also includes environmental friendly slug control products.  These alternative methods are something to consider if pets or other wildlife can gain access to the growing area.
  • Check often for damage done by wind, storms, or pests such as spider mites.
  • If extreme cold is forecast [temperatures below 32F (0C)] make sure to provide overhead protection for your Stanhopeas or move them to a warmer location.  Frost can also have detrimental impacts on the foliage of some species, especially maturing new growth.